So, I’m in Ile de Ré, a small (33 square mile) island just off of the west coast of France (more on that below). Because of the local colour scheme and the often cool mornings and evenings, I bought this cornflower-blue and white striped cashmere poncho specifically to wear here. When I saw it in a shop a few months ago, it screamed ‘Ile de Ré’ to me. See what I mean? I’m practically camouflaged in my surroundings!
Poncho: Cashmere Silk Company Sunnies: ZeroUV Jeans: M&S Sandals: old Kurt Geiger
My son and I, always exploring
One thing I love about Ile de Ré is the architectural consistency; all of the shutters and doors on the island are painted in washed out shades of blue, green, or grey. The island is authentically quaint and un-messed-with. Even though it is a very expensive place to buy property now, it retains a cozy, luxuriously slouchy vibe. Some refer to it as the French version of Cape Cod. The houses are mostly modest fishermans’ cottages (or ex-fishermans’ cottages) with a ramshackle quality that is enhanced by the wild flowers allowed to grow anywhere their roots can find purchase. They don’t do manicured gardens here; everything is meant to look slightly wild and unkempt. The island isn’t fancy or glamorous (no celebrities, no oligarchs, no super-yachts, no Ferarris), but it has an understated beauty and a unique style that is completely Ré. My husband’s family has been coming here every summer for over forty years; after my four summer holidays here and plans for next year, it looks like this is becoming my tradition too!
Fish curtains, because why not
In August, Ile de Ré is packed to the rafters with Parisian families in SUVs and on bicycles, all flocking to the beaches, markets, and restaurants, and choking up the small two-lane roads that snake through the island. The rest of the year (including September, my preferred month here) it relaxes back into its unassuming, friendly, weather-worn, tranquil ways. The beaches are quiet, the roads are open, and the markets are calm. The people who vacation here are mostly French; I hear a few Spanish or British accents from time to time, but it is rare. The local population in winter is around 20,000 people, but in summer this goes up to 220,000! There are 10 different villages (or ‘communes’) dotted along the island; my favourites are Les Portes, Loix, and St Martin, so my photos are all from there.
Map from the boulangerie wall in St Martin
Ile de Ré doesn’t produce a lot; it is an island of salt and seafood, with some donkeys (historically, for transporting salt) and goats (for cheese) thrown in. They also grow grapes for making wine, but the wine is horrible. Other foods (and better wine) are brought in via the 2 mile narrow bridge that connects the island with mainland France (lower right in the map above). Here are some photos I took to give you a sense of the place.
Light blue shutters with original beam
Hollyhocks (or Rose Trémière) are everywhere
Another sweet overgrown lane in Les Portes
Cottage doorstep, scooped out from decades of wear
An abandoned house I always fantasise about buying in Les Portes
Another fantasy house (a former mill)
The main square in the village of Loix
Salt harvesting pools near Loix
If you ever find yourself on Ile de Ré, be sure to have the artisinal ice cream at La Martiniére (on the corner in the photo below). Their version of the island specialty ‘carasel’ (shorthand for ‘caramel au beurre sale’, salted caramel) is amazing. The island also grows very flavoursome little potatoes, so there is a potato ice cream too. I once even tried oyster and caviar ice cream here; I wouldn’t have it again, but it isn’t as awful as it might sound! They also have other unique flavours like poppy, strawberry-pepper, and peach-lavender alongside staples like coconut, dark chocolate, and rum raisin. They usually have around 70 flavours on any day. Did I mention they make their own cones? They’re so delicious my son eats them like a cookie, with no ice cream!
La Martiniere in the busy port town St Martin
Gorgeous fresh seafood in the market
The busy tangle of boats, sails, and people in St Martin
Ile de Ré is an off the beaten track destination (unless you’re French), but well worth the trip… especially if you’re not a fan of beaches (I’m not) because there is so much else to do. What lures me back is the superb style… I’m a sucker for anywhere that doesn’t feel like everywhere else, and I don’t think anywhere else has the same unique French cozy/luxe fishing-village style as Ile de Ré.
15 Comments
Lana
September 14, 2015 at 5:56 PMThank you for sharing this lovely island today. Just looking at the pictures made me happy! The ice cream sounds wonderful -except for the oyster flavor. Love the poncho – so pretty on you!
Lisa
September 14, 2015 at 6:18 PMOh, I’m so pleased you enjoyed it Lana! I was worried I was boring people with too many photos. Thank you xx
michelle
September 14, 2015 at 6:05 PMWhat a gorgeous little treasure you’ve shared!I absolutely can imagine myself strolling along those little narrow lanes, admiring the white wash & shades of blue. Your cape is amazing & so perfect for the island, the photos are beautiful. Love your description of peak season 😉 sounds like september is the perfect time to enjoy the best of what Ile de Re has to offer although I won’t be trying oyster icecream any time soon!
Lisa
September 14, 2015 at 6:20 PMLOL! My father in law and I are MAD about ice cream, so we decided to try it together, as a flavour adventure. It is such a lovely island, and very child friendly for your needs too! You’d like it, I think. xx
Suzy Turner
September 14, 2015 at 7:22 PMIt really looks beautiful there! I’ve never been to France, you know? Sad really. However, we will be driving through in December when we drive back to the UK from Portugal (where we live). I’m so excited, I almost hyperventilate at the thought already lol!
Love the poncho, by the way… especially the way you’re so camouflaged there!
Suzy x
http://www.suzyturner.com
Lisa
September 14, 2015 at 7:59 PMOoooo! You’ll love France, Suzy. I can’t wait to see what you think! Thank you xx
adrian
September 15, 2015 at 5:52 PMLovely photos of a lovely island. We’ve been going back so often we’ve ended up buying a house in St Martin.
You say it’s off the beaten track. It’s easy to visit from the Uk. There are planes to La Rochelle while St Pancras – Paris – La Rochelle is an easy & comfortable train ride. The bus for the short hop onto the island connects with the train.
You can see out house here…
https://islandholidayhome.wordpress.com/our-house-on-ile-de-re/
Lisa
September 15, 2015 at 8:15 PMOf course, we fly into La Rochelle. Many of my readers are in the US, and for them it is WELL off the beaten track.
Abby
September 15, 2015 at 9:30 PMHello Poncho – Goddess!
Amazingly beautiful pictures! It makes you feel as though you’re right there in the Island. And I loved to see the little Stylopedia too:) Counting days until October!
xx Abby
Lisa
September 15, 2015 at 9:36 PMThank you, Abby! Can’t wait to see you too! xx
Lee Ann
September 19, 2015 at 1:48 PMWhat a beautiful place! Great photos to show us the charm of the island.Love the poncho and this color!
Lisa
September 19, 2015 at 4:15 PMThank you, LeeAnn! I’m so pleased you like it. xx
Emma Peach
June 14, 2016 at 5:19 PMBeautiful photos of such a charming place! I would love to visit one day. The peach and lavender ice cream sounds delicious!
Emma xxx
http://www.style-splash.com
Jill Hunter
August 29, 2017 at 4:37 PMThe wine is really not terrible at all! Try Trousse Chemise, named after the beach. Magnificent Blanc de Blanc fizz for around €10 a bottle.
Lisa
September 1, 2017 at 10:03 PMEverything I’ve ever had has been terrible! I’ll have to look the Trouse Chemise up and give it a try; thank you for the rec! xx